Arian Lemal, The Sweeper of the Peaks

July 21: 5:45 in the morning. Phil is outside my tent. "Arian, you are
awake? "," Arian Arian Arian ". I open the tent and Phil said, "what
time is it? My watch does not work! "Alarm clock fun ...

The base camp is all white, it snows in large quantities and for 3
days. It was freezing cold! We have found great activities
to pass the time:
- Snow tents
- Digging trenches ENTERED our tents
- Make a snowman
- Snowball fights, snow (as always very funny activity)
- Compete to launch snowballs at the other tents (Arshad
(The cook) and I are very active members of this discipline)
- Compete to launch snowballs at a can (my
favorite activity)
- And of course, all these activities are rewarded with good
cups of hot tea to warm cold hands!

On 24 July, 6:25, the sun appeared and warmed my tent. What
great pleasure to see the sun and feel its warmth! That night, I also had the great pleasure of admiring a starry night of full moon.
What a sight! At 8 am, waiting for us pancakes for breakfast for you ...
Yum yum!
The days are very quiet right now. We gossiped, we drink tea, listen to music, we have competed in throwing stones over a box of canned goods, we look at the surrounding mountains ... In short, this
is a real holiday! And I also think a lot of my projects sweeper tops ...
On the 27th we received the weather forecast which confirmed the arrival of
28.29.30 Snow for July. It was hoped that it happens to us
Too bad side ...! So we are stuck at base camp for a few days. I hope early August, the weather will be correct for altitude up to 7100m on the Gasherbrum1 and retrieve abandoned oxygen bottles last year.

Today I went for a walk on the glacier and clean waste that I had spotted the day before. I came back with 22kg of waste and an oxygen tank!

Our planet deserves an effort!

One morning in July (16), after spending a week at base camp, we received a weather forecast positive as expected:
Winds aloft were falling (35.50km / h), and it would great for 4 beautiful days. Finally, we could make an attempt at altitude.
Here are some of my journal of July 17:
"At 3:40, I hear my alarm clock. I'm completely fried on, I dress quietly saying "with a good night's sleep,
mounted camp2 will be more pleasant. " Indeed, this morning we leave for camp 2 at 6500m. Ie about 9 am climbing.
At 4 am I put a small bowl of porridge that goes rather badly ... but I need energy.
At 3:30, I joined the camp1. I get a few things and I
continue my journey towards the camp2. It is beautiful weather. It's beautiful.
I put my cap, I leave my cap. The climb is going well.
It's a real effort to over 6000m: I suffer but I love it!
Around 14:40, I arrive at Camp 2, pleased with this beautiful climbs. I will spend the afternoon at my hydration, rest in the tent while chatting with Wally (my climbing partner and tent).

July 18:
Being left at 6:30, I reach the camp3 to 7100m of climbing well after 4am
steep in the sun. Phil is before me, I am a sign that we
arrived. Woooowww, we really took the altitude! This is
amazing what a glacier looks small below 2000m. During the
mounted on several occasions, I turned to admire the scenery.
It is almost noon, the sky is blue and the sun shines. I'm active in
melt the snow and eat some candy. We will make a
attempt for the summit, starting at midnight. I take the afternoon
to rest. Ny I can not really, I think too much has this evening ...

On 19 July:
When our alarm clocks ring to 11:15 p.m., all we ask the question, but why does it suffer in the cold and altitude? Discreetly,
I say, because our planet deserves an effort!

At midnight, I finished shaking my crampons, I check my harness, I adjust my headlamp, and I begin to climb into the deep night. The night is silent, only noise spikes in the snow the cold night breeze. The effort is intense and beautiful. My breath is steady and the steam of my breath freezes instantly on my jacket.

After 4 hours of climbing in the middle of snow and rocks, I reach the location of Camp4 to 7400m. It is a chaotic place with dozens of torn tents, frozen in the snow and ice. It's sad as vision. I underestimated the effort needed to clean this place. I look at the place with regret and helplessness. It will take at least a dozen people for this project ... Future project?
I continue my way to the top. I am now at 7700 on a long crossing snow never ends. Phil and Wally 50m are
before me. On the summit ridge, the wind is strong and lifts the snow swirls. It's beautiful to see, but it's a bad sign. Phil and Wally stop, turn around, and make me sign to turn my radio.
"What is it Phil?". "The wind increases, you see on the ridge?".
"Yes, I see it.". "We can not continue, we risk frostbite
toes and fingers. " "It's true, well thought Phil. It then descends? ".
"Yes. Sorry ".
It was at 3 in the summit, about 7750m. The scenery was beautiful
(Photo below), the sun had just gone over the edge
summit and began to warm us. It was a cold
duck. With the wind, it was between -35 and -40 ° C!

We headed to camp3. We rested a few hours and is
we continued the descent until camp1. I arrived at camp1
at 20:30, tired but happy with this beautiful day of climbing.
The next morning I discovered that some teams have left the
leaving waste places. For an hour, I collect it all and
I load my bag. Arriving at base camp 3h later, I empty my
waste bag and weighs: 16kg.

Our planet deserved this effort there!

I am now at base camp in the snow that falls from 2
days. I expect to be able to go aloft to clean
oxygen bottles and other trash on the Gaherbrum1 to 7100m, and
perhaps make an attempt for the summit at 8064m. Dealing with
continued ...

The day after we got off the camp2 at 6:50, I opened my eyes. The
sun warming my tent. It was nice. The sky was blue, there
had upper wind on the summit of G1. At 8 am, we were all in
tent "dining room / living room" to make breakfast for you. As the
Usually, the conversations were coming in all directions, and
laughs replaced the silence of the night. All was well! Our
first rest day began ...

We are now in our 6th day of rest. We expect
good weather to go back in altitude. These two days,
it snowed and it was cold.

What is done to the base camp these days?
- Shower (we heat water that is poured into a tray, and
using a tin can to sprinkle)
- Shaving (sitting outside in the sun, surrounded by beautiful
mountains: it's beautiful!)
- Laundry (it smells like clean!!)
- Repeat the platform of the tent (I became a true mason)
- Cinema session (around 15h, we find ourselves in the "dining room"
for a short film on computer. We have a good laugh watching "Semi
pro "(film / comedy Basketball))
- Well of course, drink tea, eat cookies, and the kitchen team concocts delicious meals.
- And finally, the great excitement of the July 5: "High Altitude Games",
kind of Olympics altitude. Here's what I wrote in my
Newspaper:
"Around 9am, a general enthusiasm for sports has
leads to "high altitude games". It began with the launch of Bamboo
(Bamboo 3m long), then make the shot put with a
boulder, we continued with the discus throw with a coil
rope (8kg), then power exercise (the horizontal arm, a
coil on each arm and must be the longest. I held 58
seconds. The record is 1'13 ", other exercise of power: up to
jerrikane gasoline army, filled with water (30kg), above the head,
outstretched arm (one-arm), and finally lift a stone at 35kg
above the head several times. We spent a good hour and a half
these games. It was great! We were applauded and encouraged:
a real team! Everyone was happy and played the game Serbaz (
assistant cook, about my age) was the strongest exercises
power. There was excitement, joy, the
determination and above all good humor. It was tip top toupee! "

With all these activities and plenty of tea and food,
Base Camp is a luxury hotel!

Today (July 7), the sun is back this morning. The snow melts
slowly and I can again enjoy the view. We study the weather,
we discuss the strategy, and we will soon be back in
altitude. To be continued ...


PS: This is my big sister who updates my website. I did not
access to my emails. I use the computer and my satellite phone
neighbor tries to send pictures and text.
PSS: For those interested, a shipment of 200 kb (images and text)
costs $ 2!

Hello to you all,

June 13 at noon, I boarded a very old pink jeep towards Askole, departure village of the trek. takes about 7 hours on a dirt road in very poor condition. ca moves in all directions and it is dusty, but the scenery is magnificent: rocky desert with mountains in every direction. Occasionally, we go in a small village with mud houses and a few green fields well irrigated. Children watch us pass, and we say hello to us waving. I answer with a big smile and I in turn the waving. They love it! a big smile appears on their face. It's great.
The night starts to fall, the road narrows, stiffens, and I clench my buttocks for fear of falling into the ravine, and it becomes a real adventure, especially when the driver wants to arrive quickly and thus accelerate the pace. The driver seems comfortable. I can only trust him, so I leave the head out the window and I take this adventure. All goes well, we arrive safely: Askole. Tonight I sleep in a tent. The smell of the sleeping bag, the atmosphere of the tent and being outside makes me smile. I am delighted to be here.
The next morning around 6am, we organize the bags for the porters, and around 8 am, we begin the trek. It's cool, overcast sky, the mountains are hidden by clouds, but I sourris and I'm excited. I'm like a child before a Christmas present. A caravan of 110 porters lies before me. later, in a cloud of dust, I cross a herd of goats 50aine. And finally, whenever I double a porter, he said: "Malekum salam, how are you?". And I answer: "Malekum sala. Fine thanks. And you? "The wearer looks at me smiling and I continue my way.
4 hours later, I arrive smiling, excited and happy camper "Jhula". The after noon is going to drink tea, laugh with the rest of the team and admire the surrounding peaks (always hidden by clouds). All is well.
The next day, starting at 6am to Paju. The clouds are still there, but the morale and atmosphere are tip top toupee. 5h, and here I am in the camp, sitting under a tree (the last trees before the glacier), to admire the river and mountains. The landscape is still desert.
The following day, we begin to walk around 4am because there are a lot of snow and we want to prevent us from sinking at every step in the snow ramolie by the sun. Holders are also delighted to begin as early. The clouds disappeared and the trees and flowers, we are on the Baltoro glacier (60km long glacier) the mountains are revealed, it is magnificent hanging glaciers covered peaks, steep rocky peaks and blue sky.
It is -10 degrees in the morning when we begin to walk, then around 8 am, with the sun and the reflection, I feel like in an oven at 200 degrees. Ramolie snow at great speed, I picks up speed to reach the camp around 9am or 10am.
June 20, I arrive at base camp at 5000m. I'm slightly a headache due to altitude, but I'm happy to be there. I recognize the surrounding peaks that I so admired last summer during the two months I was there! Nothing has changed except that there are a lot of snow. It's all white. I set up my tent, I get my two bags, and I put my stuff in my little house for the next 2 months ...
I am very happy to be here. it'll be a great expedition. I will bring beautiful images for you to share this adventure. The atmosphere is cheerful with the team. We cry we laugh so much!
The 24 around 4 am, I will leave for camp1 to 5900m. The acclimatization phase begins. I can not wait to don my heavy boots and my crampons, put on my harness, turn on the lamp and start climbing. I'm less eager to be back among the crevices and seracs, but I'll be roped, and everything will be fine.
Meanwhile, the next new, wear you well, and take good care of our beautiful planet.
Our planet deserves an effort.

June 27, Base Camp: About midnight I was awakened again, I looked at the ceiling of the tent. The light outside intrigued me. I opened the tent to have the pleasure to admire a full moon night. All the surrounding peaks were visible, it was superb! Crystal clear The air was cold, there was no wind, the night was silent. What a sight! Around 6am, the sun rose. I waited until the sun warms my tent (6:25) out of my sleeping bag and I continued to admire the scenery.

June 28, base camp, 3:45 am: it is cold, the night is fine, I get dressed to go to Camp 1. Leaving the warmth of the sleeping bag is always "oh no not now, a few more minutes!"
At 4:20, I put on my crampons, and I agree on the glacier. The snow crunch, my breath is steady, the cracks are silent and motionless seracs. All is well!
4 hours later, I arrive at camp1 in great shape. A few minutes later, Phil (expedition leader) and I resume the march to the camp2 to mark the path on the glacier with bamboo. At the foot of the face, we study the way of quickly climbing to the camp2. It is completely different from last year.
1:30 later it is back to camp1, happy with our effort. The bamboo we will certainly be very useful ... I spent the rest of the day lying in the tent to rest, listen to music (especially groups "3 doors down" and "30 Seconds to Mars"), chat with other, melt snow, and finally eat some candy!

June 29: Wally (my tent mate) and I have not heard the alarm clock this morning. Instead of 4 hours, it has opened my eyes to 4:21. It is very cold this morning at 5950m. Boil water, dressing, and make his bag were very unpleasant by extreme cold. Somehow, I'm prepared. The new path to camp2 is steeper, more exposed to falling rocks and ice, but more direct.

The climb goes "nikel Chrome" (3:45), I feel tip top toupee. This is not the case with some of my other companions who come to camp2 to 6500m in pitiful condition. I welcome them with a friendly hug, hot tea and tents.
The altitude is felt ... This morning at 4am, cold does not give us the desire to make a small effort to bf. Wally and I just ate some cookies. Now, in 6500, at 11:50, ensconced in camp2, lyophilized during breakfast is quite appreciated!
June 30, camp2, acclimatization day: I opened my eyes at 5am, it was snowing and the wind was blowing hard. No need to get the sleeping bag to climb, but to go pee! Oulalalalalala Express so the output is the temperature is freezing. Wally and I laugh a situation once back in the tent! The wind grew tenfold in the day. The tent was shaking all over the place. We sat back against the walls to support the pickets to avoid their backbone. We can no longer talk to our tents, the wind is too loud and it's snowing heavily! The return tomorrow could be dangerous ...

1 juilllet, camp2 descent to base camp: at 5am, frozen condensation on the walls of the tent above us fell like rain on our every move to get dressed. The wind was still blowing and the snow continued to fall. Quiet, I'm like "Damn, the descent will be Rock & Roll"!
After 10 minutes of descent in deep snow, the first obstacle: a thin ledge as a razor blade on each side with 500m to empty! Phil came forward and said: "this is fucked up." Basically, sorry for bad words, this is what AC meant "Damn, what's that crazy cornice. No way that I go! " It was the only way possible, so I volunteered. Phil pulled out a rope and hop to make sure I was getting into this magnificent cornice. First step, I set off an avalanche. It starts well! I'm progressing slowly but surely. Halfway, the ledge becomes too dangerous, the snow is so fine that I can not find solid support for my feet, so I decided to emulate my sister who went horseback riding: I m 'sitting astride the ridge and I am progressing well. The passage of this ledge 25m long will take me 20 minutes. The trace is made, the others follow. Here I am now at the fixed ropes (strings that are installed with snow stakes to secure the ascent and descent especially) that are covered with snow. At each anchor, I must dig to find the rope and pull down to remove gradually and thus be able to rappel. At the foot of the face, our valued bamboos show us how. The fog, wind, snow and slow growth make the descent intense and exciting. We will have 4 hours to reach the camp1 instead of 1:30. What a descent! And it's not over, we still have to descend to base camp: 8km with 900m of elevation in the midst of crevasses and seracs. The wind was cold, visibility was minimal, fatigue was felt, and I began to cough up I fold in half. "Mashed peanut is not tip top toupee." Around 13:40, I arrived at base camp in pretty miserable. I hastened to change my business to bring dry and warm, and drink hot tea. Others came gradually to a condition similar to mad downhill ... What took us seven hours!

All the team was back at base camp, hot tea flowed at will and warmed our bodies weakened. Slowly, the silence was replaced by laughs, jokes and discussions. All was well, we were back in the plush base camp. The camp2 was established, we could rest a few days ...
PS: I have not yet joined the high camps with the waste. My cleanup effort was limited to only a few packages of granola bars for the moment.
PSS: Since I have a lot of time to think, I reflect on the future projects of sweeper tops, how to improve interventions in schools, how to solicit sponsors, and many obviously how to make an effort to preserve our environment.
Our planet deserves an effort!