Arian Lemal, The sweeper Treetop

The 8: friend needs to make a port of material to 5100m for clients, I asked him to accompany him and then we go through camp canada down the waste. The day is beautiful, everything is going well except that my knee is painful! but hopefully we descend to base camp, and all the rubbish I picked up his base camp and will leave tomorrow for the park entrance.
The project is a real success, everyone is delighted, and several guides and porters tell me that the camp berlin is cleaner, we see the difference.

That's the new janitor of the peaks, I think out of the park on January 11. I'll be able to eat fresh fruit, and make me a good breakfast with cornflakes and milk .... gonna be happy!!
I'll back to you around January 12!

Very good day to you all,
Arian, the sweeper of the peaks

On 3 January: it was cold that night, my sleeping bag is still full of ice crystals! (8:30 am)
The sun begins to heat my tent, the sky is blue, the wind blows gently, everything is going very well! From my tent, I look for shipments from Camp 2, 5900M. There are many today! AC may rub tomorrow on the way to the top ... Today, I'm going to relax and take a tour of the Waste nido to search under rocks! Tomorrow, I will ascend to Camp 2!

4th: around 11am, I went to Camp 2 or Camp Berlin to clean up waste that remained. The weather was still stable with a slight breeze. During my cleaning, a nice South Korea offered me orange juice hot (weird at first but it warms) and Korean cookies! It was very nice of him, I'm sitting Outside his tent, and while m'hydratant, I discussed a variety of climbs with her! Around 3am, I went down with my waste and the end of a day was spent chatting with Norwegian!
The sunset was beautiful, almost no wind and the dazzling colors of beauty!

5th: I go back to berlin, 5900M around 11am then go to a place called "piedra blancas" simply because there are white stones around. It is situated 6100m. I'm heading towards this place because it is a tent torn and abandoned up there that I want to clean! Here I am at the main tent, it is filled with snow and ice as solid as concrete! about 15h, I start to work with my ice ax, I hit the ice, knock, knock, knock again ... I rest 3 minutes, and I again! Ice exploding into small pieces that I flog the face ... but hopefully, the sun shines, it is almost good, and I was progressing well! 1:45 later, here is the tent freed of its ice, I let it dry in the sun while I collect some waste around. It is almost 5am. At that moment, I see a "guardaparque" which climbs ... he said he will seek someone who has a problem 300m higher! 5 minutes later, here is a second "guardaparque" that passes, people greet friendly! An hour later, come back with the "evacuated", they descend slowly surrounding and supporting the man!
25 minutes later, I start my run with my garbage. I agree with the camp and I see two guardaparque activated to moisturize the climber ... it is sitting on a stone with no activity, it does not move, he is away! I'm getting closer and I recognize an Austrian I met 40 years ago to base camp! I approach him, he scarcely speaks ... I hear he spent a night in Canaleta, he reached the summit VAIT 7 pm Jan. 4! He is dehydrated, tired, completely disoriented, but seems not to have frostbite or critical problems. I will talk with friends, and I began my descent. I met one of the "guardaparque" with the Austrian downhill, it is not moving at all, is laborious! It is 7 o'clock in the evening, the night will fall, you must come down! I intend to help the guardaparque, he accepts with pleasure. Him before, and behind me, we advance a snail's pace ... on two occasions, the Austrian stumbled, I caught him by the backpack inextremis. The descent is laborious seriously ... but we're lucky, the weather is stable, and the temperature pleasant. During the descent, called the Austrian Hermann, said: "This is really not far from the camp, this is really not far." We soutennons about it and we say that we must continue the descent. It's not far, but we must all continue ... 6-7 minutes I hermann motivated to continue the descent (the guardaparque speaks very little English). It merely has to tell us that the camp is not far, and look at the camp without moving .... The descent took us 2:30, instead of 45 minutes! couchñe the sun, but the sky is red, orange, we still see quite clearly! I ask him where is his tent .. "Her by" ... not hermann, there is nothing over there ... "so here it is" .... Hermann No, this is not yours .... He does not know his tent ... or is it gives me the brand and color, and I go look for the tent, it was the other extreme where we find ... Several times during the descent, she was asked how it went, It responds well, or better, he would just drink a lot! In arriving at the tent, hermann wants to show us his photos, he is not concerned at all about his body, he wants to show us he was at the top, and was a strong man by reaching the summit ... his mind works really bad ... I kindly told him that we gade it all together tomorrow morning. I force because it does not! He sat in his tent, he said it's going better, he will drink a lot ... I ask him again if all goes well, he answers "yes yes yes, thank you, I'll put in my bag sleeping and sleeping. " this seems acceptable, the guardaparque accept, we are below 1500, the situation is out of danger! The guardaparque invites me to drink hot tea and eat something. We congratulate each other downhill, and we say that Hermann really lucky, lucky he had an equipment of very good quality jacket with a super hot!
30 minutes, we say that we're going to see if everything goes well on the side of hermann. He seemed quite aware. Arriving in his tent, he is still sitting, shoes still on their feet, like the jacket ... it has not changed one bit! but even when he drank a little. Her eyes are empty, it is still in his tent ... It is a body without a soul ... We must do everything for him ... you start to remove the boots ... a sock ... "oooohh mierda" said the guardaparque, the foot is Violet even half. We feared the worst for the second scenario ... even dark purple! he has both feet frozen, "this ugly to see! guardaparque takes the direct radio and begins to discuss the situation with the base. Me, I look for dry socks in the tent, and clothes to surround your feet! Hermann is small but rather grassouillais .... I was just sunrise, and from installation to move it in his sleeping bag fully clothed, the jacket surrounding it and his feet with 2 pairs of socks and a fleece all around! hermann just wants to sleep now, we give an aspirin to thin the blood, two thermos of hot tea ... well he was told to drink, and if necessary the guardaparque is not far ... It's 11pm, I am tired, I'm going to bed ... the guardaparque thank me for my help a lot because without English it would have been a lot of Difficulties ...
The next day at 7am, my tent, I hear the chopper, hermann is certainly evacuated. I would learn later that he did all his requirements on him during the night, and he had to raise al'helico Take affected ... it will be taken straight to hospital. I do not know the rest is history!

The 6: Rest day was 5300m and last cleaning of waste camp1. Descent of two bags of waste 4900m at Camp Canada. Approximately 25kg. I went back to camp 1.

On 7, tidying up the altitude tent, preparation of the bag, and back down with a garbage bag at the base camp. I have almost 46 kg on the back ... the descent is long and my right knee suffered ...
I retrouvre base camp with all its "comfort". my patellar tendon suffered during the descent, that is painful. But hopefully, I'm back at base camp, the wastes are below, but two bags camp canada 4900m Ill go get that tomorrow.

The 2-01-2007: Day summit scheduled departure around 3am. I can not sleep, so around 1:30, I started to get ready and I go to 2:30. It is -15 degrees in my tent, the wind blows gently, the moon is full, the starry sky is wonderful to go for the summit. I drink hot chocolate, I eat a cereal bar, I dress warm, j'enfille my shoes, my gloves down, my bag, my sticks ... and go!
The cold night is silent, I hear the sound of my footsteps on the snow clutching my sticks and metallic sound and the sound of my breathing in the rarefied oxygen. It is quite magical as when, alone in the night sky. On several occasions, I raise my eyes to admire the stars and the moon shining. My progress is normal, but my legs are heavy, it's quite curious! An hour later, I stopped to camp berlin (5900M) for m'hydrater and 5 minutes later, I'm leaving! My legs are still heavy. ... I say it's mental because I feel like already traveled this road a week ago and I just feel it is long and I do not advance! Not enough oxygen in my brain I think ... Anyway, enough laboriously, I arrived at the camp Independencia (6400m), the night is still deep and the wind rose: a wind that froze my face freezes and condensation my breath on my scarf (scarf that I wear to avoid breathing in cold air and thus aggravate my sore throat). I find myself with a scarf covered with ice crystals ... it feels quite strange! In addition, it does not look good on my face, so I have to remove my gloves to the back, so I froze hands in 2 minutes. Above independencia, after passing a cornice of snow, I "tumbling" in the "great Acareo", a journey of 1h30 very long and very exposed to winds above! It does not fail, when I pass the ledge, I am literally a slap of wind chill was 50 km-h. As soon as I say "ohhh happiness."
Small digression, I return back in 30 minutes: Independencia has happened, I thought laboriously forward, but when I look at my watch, it said 5:23. 3 hours to arrive at independencia, instead of 3:45 last year, it's very motivating!
Back in the passage: to protect me from the cold wind that happens to me right, I turn my head slightly to the left and I crab: rather amusing situation 6500m, right?
At the time, I was not the happiest of climbers. ... ah ah ah ah! It is 6:30, I'm well on the crossing, and the sun rises! I do not see the sun, it is hidden behind the Aconcagua, however the colors blue, purple and orange are revealed on the horizon behind me, the show is wonderful. I super cold, but beautiful, beautiful, BEAUTIFUL !!!!!!!!
Despite my technique crab, the wind makes me cry, and tears will freeze on my eyelashes ... From time to time, I'm off my lashes top and bottom! The crossing is quick, and here I am at the foot of Canaleta small corridor of 200m in altitude, steep (35 degrees), is here with a scree and large boulders. Let me tell you that AC slips, it is unstable and is a labyrinth of stones. Last year, this corridor was full of snow. This year, there is solid ice from time to time! Well, I'm starting, and 10 steps and I stopped, and 10 steps and I stopped ... and ahhhh ... not thin, I just drop by 3! Beard! the sun has not yet passed over the Aconcagua, the fact that I'm still in the dark and the cold persists, but I'm progressing well ... a little drop in occasionally and keep going. I'm always alone, I look far back (about 3 hours of climbing), and no! This Jan. 2, I'm all alone from the top, or it is too early (8am) to be too high!
I begin to see the top, top left, it is still far, but I walk with my baby steps "crab". A little nostalgic feeling develops in me ... 30 minutes later, here I am on the summit ridge, I turned around and before me, appears at the top of the south face ... beautiful and majestic! I continue my progress on a lot that I do not like: ice and loose rock with a nice near vertical slope to my left! stay focused! One step, two, three and here before me the cross summit of Aconcagua. I can not believe it ... after one year of work, bronchitis, sore throat and antibiotics at altitude, I managed to reach the summit to get my message! I'm happy, but I cry! All alone 6962m, I weep for joy! Everything goes well, the aconcagua me again accepted the top and gives me the opportunity to pass my message of this mythical place. Aconcagua thank you!
Last year, I made the mistake of staying on top and even 3 hours of sleep! This time, I stay focused, I take pictures, I make video images, I collect some waste around the cross, and 45 minutes later here I am in the descent! I do not like the raids, they are dangerous, so I redoubled vigilance ... has three times I slipped and landed on my butt and on the backpack, my left elbow took a sudden a little violent. Arian careful! 35 minutes later I'm at the foot of the Canaleta off I perceive an expedition climbing. Here are the first climbers I see, it is almost 11am! All these climbers did not look healthy, even climb some way to unstable and unreliable ... Little encouragement from me, and I continued my descent to the camp Independencia (6400m) where I had spotted waste. Good surprise, waste is still there, I leave my bag cleaning, I put my mitt, and I clean this abandoned shack! 30 minutes later, and 15 more kilos on their backs, I continued my descent. The bag gets heavy on my shoulders and my legs are really starting to tire ... you tell me this is normal after 1600m of ascent above 6000m, and back down with 15kg of waste. The last meters to my tent are long and difficult. It is 13:15, I just arrived at my tent after a huge morning 11am! I drop my bag down and sat looking at the top of where I come from. I had an excellent acclimatization, which allowed me to reach the summit in 6h30 from Camp 1, 5300m. I am very happy, but my Mantua came back and she bothers me! I hope it will go!
10 minutes later, I take off my boots high, my jacket, my hat, my pole, my two pants, socks, colant ... I find myself in shorts and t-shirt, I drink a liter and a half water, and I tack it in my sleeping bag to rest ... I will sleep only two hours! To 16h, the "guardaparque" come see me, am pleased with the summit, and tell me that the helicopter this morning came for the waste to go down! Its a great news! In fact, the helicopter deposited the living and material, and then back down took waste!
This morning in Canaleta, 1200 m above, I heard the helicopter and I turned I saw him at a camp (a small flying saucer full of lights), but I thought it was for an evacuation ... waste disposal in the end!
In short, this day of February 2 is EXCELLENT!!
The end of the day unfolds quietly chatting with friends was very interested in the summit since the attempt in two days!
That evening, I tack it in my sleeping bag, I only emerge later than 10am!

Hello

First of all, very good year to all of you who follow environmental adventure. I hope the holidays went well and that you have very good intentions for the beautiful planet we live on ... From the base camp of Aconcagua, I wish you very good things for this new year. It's nine days that you were waiting for the new sweeper tops ... Here they are:

After four days of rest at base camp to fetch my angina pain, I had to go back to altitude to continue the cleanup of this beautiful mountain.

30: 11 am, I just had a discussion with "guardaparque" base camp, the Chief was not aware of my project, and this was the same problem as I had no administrative or official paper stating my interest in the mountain and my project. Lack of communication and simply ... Anyway, I re-explain at all and even argue in favor of my project, but even when I was congratulated for my efforts. He simply saw a lot of people going into free and clean Aconcagua, except that these people had never climbed the Aconcagua and simply wanted to take advantage ... well, some people make bad caring things more difficult ... and I understand quite the guardaparque.
The end of the discussion was friendly and very warm as understood who I was and the seriousness of my project. At the end, he was even impressed. However, bad news: it does not raise the helicopter has just 5300m to the waste, which means I'm going down all the wastes at the base camp. That is to say down certain waste 2000m, 1000m and others ... imagine, I have already collected about 100kg of waste .... gonna hurt my back and legs !!!!! It complicates things a bit, but it is doable. It must just be determined and motivated.

31: 8:30 am to start my camp 1. The sun rises slowly, the wind is minimal, it is a day to climb high altitude magnfique without freezing your hands ... I'm still on antibiotics, I am better, but I do not feel I could.
The climb was long (4300m 5300m has) and difficult, very often I stopped because my legs were heavy, but heavy ...
However, it took me only 4:20 to reach my tent, which is a perfectly acceptable time. I do not really coughing so the situation is quite good. For three days now, temperatures rose again and the wind has gone! Because happiness Aconcagua at this time, j'adoreeeeee!!
Arriving in my tent, I was pleasantly surprised to see that she was always there but also a small stream flowing around and above. The snow melts very quickly in this time, which make it run off the slope and they end up in my tent. ... Genial! ha ha ha, it's better to laugh than cry ... As we speak I'm writing these few lines in my notebook, I hear the water flowing at 5 meters from my tent. In short, while I go out of the tent, I pick up the anchors, and I moved my tent to dry. It was possible to gadouilleux .... but all is well, life is beautiful!
I flip my tent and left to dry and the rest. I'm lucky that this day is hot, sunny and no wind. It's great! For the first time this trip, the camp is a viable and enjoyable. I do not wear gloves, no jacket, no ski mask. ... Brief ideal!
And for a change, I'll get some snow and I go to work. I sit outside sitting on a stone with a magnificent view of a camp and the surrounding mountains! It's beautiful! 2:30 later, I have 5 liters of water, I'm happy! Now it is 5:30 p.m. ET I rest in my tent with the sound of the stream ... not bad life, eh?
Tonight will be my first Christmas Eve has 5300m of altitude alone. Tomorrow, I will wish good year for other climbers!

The 1-01-2007: New year begins, it is 3:50 p.m., the sun is shining, the wind is minimal, I walk around a camp to pick up litter, and I rest. I think going to the summit tomorrow. Since I can not sleep between midnight and 4am, to make time pass quickly, as far as I pull on my boots and I walk to the summit ...

Hello
It makes some days I could not write because I was in altitude (between 5300 and 6500). Finally, a few old and new cool:

The 19 was a day off to base camp and preparing for my bag up in altitude the next day. The day was windy, but sunny. She passed quietly.

20: I slept badly again! But hey, I'm getting used to. Quick breakfast around 8:30, and 8:50 for departure to Camp 1, 5300m. The weather is fairly stable, a little icy wind from time to time, a landscape still "beautiful moon", and climb looks good. I feel very motivated for this climb, my morale is at the top. When you gotta go, gotta go! I cover myself with my many different clothes (4 different layers to keep warm and protect from wind). By cons after one hour, I realize I'm wearing a t-shirt not tight, "which reveals itself to be a big mistake! Air infiltrates and cools my chest ... which is dangerous for my bronchitis. While walking, I told myself "I hope I will not regret it. In short, this scares me cold, but I must continue! The ascent is very good, I have a good steady pace, I found a good feeling ... as in January. By 4am, I join my tent 5300m, waiting for me any good, especially me this air protection and home. What happiness! I found Rex, we are all happy to return! Before coming into my tent, I'll fill a bag of snow to produce water thereafter. And yes, I have more water flowing from the glacier, just over tap. The water becomes more scarce and valuable than before.
The atmosphere is once again a joke and a good mood with Rex. Our tents are at 1m from each other. I am invited to lunch in his tent, it is 14h. The meal finished, I slipped into my tent and began the long process to produce water and m'hydrater. Speaking of m'hydrater, I must drink a little! Damn, I spilled on my sleeping bag ... a draw!
The wind started to rise, it is violent (h-80km), the tent shaking all over, it folds, it folds, it shakes ... but always returns to its original state. Thank you "Mountain Hardwear" for its high quality equipment. He - 4 degrees in the tent. From our respective tents, and Rex month we speak, we ask how it goes, what we do (at bottom of sleeping bag warm) ... short of rain and sunshine. I have a headache, the altitude is felt ... so I do everything slowly. I pretty much put away my tent to make it my new home ... in total, even when I spend about 20 days.